“Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.” – John Steinbeck, 1953
More than 70 years ago, Steinbeck warned us that Positano bites deep. Consider me bitten. Here I am, scrolling through photos and writing this post, and I feel the sting.
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Tuscany to Positano: A Travel Day Adventure
Getting from Tuscany to the Amalfi Coast was a true “planes, trains, and automobiles” kind of day (minus the plane, plus a tram). We returned our rental car at the Florence airport, hopped on a tram to the train station, and took a train to Naples. There, we rented another car and drove to Positano. In Positano, we parked the car in a storage garage, caught a local bus, and were dropped off near our AirBnN. Then came the grand finale: climbing more than 100 stairs, with our suitcases, to the place we’d call home for the next two nights. If you’re looking for a European vacation that includes a good workout, I highly recommend Positano. No gym membership required!
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A Little Wish That Came True!
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Back in February, I went to a ladies’ night out where we each chose a small canvas to paint. I picked one with the word Positano on it, hoping that someday I’d get to see this beautiful Italian town for myself. Who knew that just a few months later, I’d really be in Positano! Sometimes it’s fun to look back at the little things that hint at adventures to come. I’m so glad this one made its way from my paintbrush to my passport!
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Positano: A Vertical City of Great Views and Endless Stairs
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Positano is uniquely beautiful. Pastel homes stack up the cliffside like a colorful layer cake, spilling down to the sea below. It’s an architectural wonder, and a serious workout. Everything is either uphill or downhill.
It’s a place where beauty and history collide. Positano started as a small fishing village, then quietly slipped into obscurity as residents left for larger towns in search of sustainable work and livelihood. About 100 years ago, artists and writers rediscovered this town. The rest, as they say, is postcard history
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Driving the Amalfi Coast
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Having a rental car let us explore the spectacular Amalfi Coast. The road is narrowly carved into the cliffs and famous for its hairpin turns and sheer drop-offs to the sea. It’s a bucket-list drive. I’m thankful our friend Mark was up for this driving adventure, so that the rest of us could take in the incredible scenery.
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Fun fact: honking around blind corners is the local way of saying, “Hello, I’m coming through!”
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The Fjord: An Absolute Must
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A highlight of the trip was the Fiordo di Furore, Italy’s only fjord. It’s a gap in the stone wall, with a beach, cliffs rising on either side, and a stunning bridge across the entrance. You feel as though you’ve stumbled upon a secret corner of the world.
I found pieces of sea glass and a decorative stone on the fjord’s little beach. Now that I’m home, they sit on my dresser as proof that Positano wasn’t just a dream. (Steinbeck would approve.)
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Sunsets and our Little Piece of Paradise
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The most magical time of the day in Positano was sunset. There is nothing quite like watching the light fade over the cliff and sea. What a gift to sit and take it all in.
The patio was what made me choose our Airbnb. It was such a peaceful place to start the day with an espresso, to sit, relax read, take in the scenery and appreciate the moment. After all the traveling, walking, and climbing – having that peaceful patio was really special. Sometimes the best travel memories are the opportunities to sit still and take it all in! And … to hang the laundry like a local.
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A Few Tips for Visiting Positano
If you’re planning your own Amalfi Coast adventure, here are a few things I learned along the way:
Pack comfortable walking shoes. You’ll be walking up and down hills and stairs all day, every day. Save the heels for a place with elevators!
Pack lightly. I was regretting my large suitcase every single one of the 100 plus steps.
You don’t necessarily need a rental car. Local buses connect many of the coastal towns, and water taxis or ferries can make exploring by sea a fun alternative.
Leave room in your schedule to wander. Some of my favorite moments came from exploring without a plan, stopping to shop, eat, or simply admire the view.
Don’t skip the sunsets. Find a patio, terrace, or scenic spot and give yourself time to enjoy the beauty around you. My recommendation: Franco’s. They only sell drinks, but provide complimentary green olives and popcorn and have amazing views of the skyline at sunset!
Dress Code: Light, bright and airy! Colorful, floral and fruity! Wear layers. It’s hot by day and cool at night.
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Arrivederci, Amalfi!
Thank you for following along on our Amalfi Coast adventure. Steinbeck said Positano “bites deep,” and he wasn’t exaggerating. The cliffs, the sunsets, the water, and yes, even the stairs left an imprint. I may sitting at my dining table in Minnesota as I write, but a piece of me is still on that patio with a view of the sea.
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Next Stop: Rome!
Get ready for ancient history, incredible architecture, breath-taking churches, and a whole new set of streets to explore. Italy is my favorite kind of exercise.
